Easter in Úbeda

Easter in Úbeda

On Palm Sunday afternoon, the “costaleros” locked their “mulica” in the Church of the Holy Trinity, but the balconies still bear the weight of the flag and the palm braided by masterful hands of artisans from the San Millán neighbourhood.
When you get to the Plaza de Santa María, you realise that there just a few in the world of such beauty. The architect Andrés de Vandelvira, author of the facade of the Cathedral of Jaén, gave an excepcional bearing to this irregular shaped square. Now they seek to honour this Renaissance man.

Easter in Úbeda

As big as the chained fish market of the municipal palace was, every year it remains small to welcome so many neighbours. When the night comes, Úbeda has a halo of Castilian mysticism. The doors of the Church of Santa María de los Reales Alcázares open at last, when the clock announces ten o'clock at night. A silence only broken by drums and bugles takes Vázquez de Molina Square.
Our Lady of Grace is one of the youngest brotherhoods in the city, 250 brothers illuminate it. “Costaleros” kneel the passage through the narrow door of the temple. The crowd burst into palms and cheers recognising and effort only possible after long weeks of rehearsal. Blue tunic and white bib for the penitent, music band that plays processional marches and a tour throught the old streets and squares. The Virgin of Grace, with her pale face,her semi-open mouth and watery eyes will be “locked” after one o’clock in the morning. Picture: Turismodeubeda.com

Imagine it is Holy Monday in Úbeda. From one of the most magnificent viewpoints of the ancient city, Mágina gives a cropped silhouette to the traveller. Sometimes, the contour melts the land and the sky as if they were the same thing. On Holy Tuesday a Via Crucis will plunge Úbeda into silence. With the arrival of Holy Wednesday, the locals will take images carved by Palma Burgos who is “honorary citizen” of Úbeda. Good Thursday and Good Friday make up, as anywhere, the greatest days of Easter. Úbeda: a serious, tough, formal way of seeing, understanding and getting excited with the Passion of Christ. Picture: Turismodeubeda.com

What to eat in Úbeda

The local cuisine is very related to the traditional Castilian dishes, blended with the Andalusian imagination. During Easter in Úbeda, battered cod and spinach tortillas are the traditional dishes. The “ochíos”, buns with aromatic species, as well as the “hornazo”, a sugar cake with a hard-boiled egg, are the most typical options of their delicate bakery.

What to see in Úbeda

Complete your visit by getting to the Plaza de Vázquez Square, the Viewpoints roundabouts, the Market Square and the Church of San Pablo, all of them places of incalculable historical value. You can also visit the neighbouring town of Baeza that has another very interesting Easter, represented mainly by the Miserere de Eslava.

Where to sleep in Úbeda

Rest in El Añadío, in Vilches, a very authentic and traditional accommodation in the heart of a cattle ranch. Also in Dos Olivos Full Rental House, a renovated farmhouse in the heart of the Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas region.